
“One disadvantage in being a Wave is that a girl cannot change clothes as often as she changes moods. On duty Waves must wear uniforms and the latest styles must be forgotten. But a Wave can still choose her lingerie, which must not be too frilly for easy laundering. Pretty Waves at last week’s Ritz-Carlton fashion show in New York find it difficult to decide whether the diaphanous nightie being modeled meets Navy requirements.” Life magazine, April 1943



During the social disruptions of World War II, American media tried to assure its audience that women who served in the military would retain traditional gendered behavior and femininity. Because these women pushed generally expected and accepted professional boundaries, maintaining a “womanly” public image was important to the Navy.

The Navy hired couture designer Mainbocher to create an appealingly glamorous outfit and used it as a selling point to recruits. While some women admitted to joining the Navy because of the uniform, the vast majority were attracted to the carer opportunities and making a contribution to the war effort. So, I have to wonder whether, as the caption suggests, those WAVES at the Ritz fashion show were really looking at the model with envy. Maybe it was a sense of pride at what they were wearing instead.
